Mary Richardson / Special to American Press

This mosaic is in the Basilica of St. Vitale, and it dates from the sixth century. A young, beardless Redeemer sits on the celestial globe. At his sides are two angels, and he is offering the martyr’s crown to St. Vitale, who was named a martyr under Diocletian. On his left, a bishop offers the basilica to Christ. (Joe Richardson/Special to the American Press)

There should have been a sign. Here we were, standing in what had been the center of the known universe. But Ravenna, Italy, looked like an ordinary — which is to say, wonderful — Italian city size of greater Charles.

It wasn’t busy weren’t too instead, people

There weren’t too many tourists. Italian families sat under umbrellas in the main square eating ice cream. There was a steady buzz of conversation, but it was mostly in Italian, not a multitude of languages. It does have a McDonald’s. But that probably isn’t because Ravenna used to rule the world. Yet, it did just that. In 402, the Roman emperor Honorius moved his capital to the obscure town of Ravenna because he was afraid the Goths would attack his court in Milan. He was right about the Goths’ intentions. Milan was sacked, but Ravenna wasn’t safe either. Honorius thought the obscurity of the town, located in the marshy coastal area south of Venice, would protect him. But only eight years after Milan fell, the Goths sacked Ravenna, too, and the Roman Empire continued to decline.

But not Ravenna. Ravenna itself prospered. In fact, its new Goth rulers, especially the Christian Ostrogoth Theodoric, loved the place and lavished riches on it.

Then the Eastern Roman Empire, based in Constantinople, conquered the Goths. It annexed Ravenna, and the city became something called an “exarchate” — which meant even more riches came into the city.

This mosaic of Christ being baptized by John the Baptist, surrounded by the Twelve Apostles, is on the domed ceiling of the Arian Baptistry. (Joe Richardson/Special to the American Press)

Ravenna was glorious. It held the most magnificent art, palaces and churches, and it was possibly the most vibrant cultural center of the world.

So why hasn’t anybody heard of it today? And where did all those riches go?

The good news is that most of those riches are still there. And the even better news is that you don’t have to fight the crowds to see them.

The first site to head for in Ravenna is the Basilica of San Vitale, which was built between 525 and 548.

Guide books are ecstatic about its mosaics. The Rough Guide, an opinionated tome that usually cuts to the heart of touristic matters, says the mosaics are “generally acknowledged to be the crowning achievement of Byzantine art extant anywhere in the world.”

And they are stunning. The inside of the basilica glitters with the gold and glass in the mosaics, which appear to cover every inch of every surface. And they are right in front of you; no ropes keep you a safe distance away. There is no time limit on how long you are allowed to stare in wonder. The place is yours to take in at your leisure.

The mosaic artists portrayed both religious and political scenes. Scenes from the Bible run across the walls, with charming frogs, herons, dolphins and flowers filling in every space between the religious figures.

The political figures are equally magnificent. The mosaics of Emperor Justinian and his wife, Theodora, are considered to be the powerful couple’s finest surviving portraits.

Right next to the basilica is the Mausoleo di Galla Placidia, built as the burial place for Honorius’ half sister.

The place feels blue. The vaulted ceiling is a deep blue mosaic, studded with gold stars and with a gold cross at its apex. The mosaic inside and above the entrance is a breathtaking depiction of Jesus as a shepherd.

The center of the city of Ravenna is closed to automobile traffic, and bicycles are the main mode of transportation. (Joe Richardson / Special to the American Press)

The motifs, early Christian Roman, differ from the Byzantine basilica next door. The Good Shepherd, for example, was a common subject of early Christian art, but it disappeared during the Renaissance.

Luckily for people who want to see everything, the city center of Ravenna is compact. Almost all of the important historical sites are within short walks — or bike rides — of one another.

Cars are not allowed in the city center, but bicycles are everywhere. Most are the oldfashioned kind — no gears or doodads, just baskets to fill with groceries or carry a toddler.

I was surprised at how many of the bikes are bright yellow. Then a shop owner offered me the key to one. The bright yellow bikes are owned by the city, which encourages people to take one from a rack and return it at any rack around town. They’re free to tourists and residents alike.

It takes about two full days to see the treasures of Ravenna. Eight of Ravenna’s buildings are on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Plus there are the ice-cream parlors and the shops. Ravenna seems to be filled with low-priced 100 percent linen clothing. I found a pair of pants I liked and was surprised at the price tag — 24 euros. The salesperson just laughed and said, “You’re not in Rome, you know.”

And then there is peoplewatching. The place to do that is at the main square, the Piazza del Popolo, laid out by Venetians in the 15 th century.

This square seems to be where Ravenna gathers. People eat, kids play, parents push strollers. A wedding took place while we ate ice cream.

It is also the location of McDonald’s. Inside it looks like any regular McDonald’s (except that the drink menu included beer). But people eat outside under big white umbrellas. Instead of having a playground, children play around two tall Venetian columns that were erected in 1483 — perhaps the harbinger of golden arches.

But maybe McDonald’s is the sign of what Ravenna has become.

It is Roman. It is Gothic. Much of it is spectacularly Byzantine. It is medieval and Venetian.

But it is also just a city, with people doing ordinary things. Daily business gets done without fanfare, and people eat at McDonald’s.

Ravenna. I’m loving it.

*This story first appeared in the American Press on August 8, 2004.